The problem: files sized for someone else
A lot of armor STLs you can buy are built around one reference body — often a tall, broad build. If you're shorter, slimmer, or just shaped differently, the pieces won't sit right. The usual fix is to type one percentage into your slicer and hope. That works for a helmet, sometimes. For a chest plate it often doesn't, because your chest width, depth and torso length don't all differ from the model by the same amount.
What "AI sizing" should and shouldn't mean
In Armor-Sizer Studio, AI doesn't generate armor or images. It helps with two things:
- Estimating measurements from photos. A front and a side photo plus your real height let the app estimate widths and depths at your head, chest, waist, forearm and calf, and turn them into circumferences. You get a confidence level — a tape measure is still more accurate.
- Recommending a starting scale. Tell the AI Fit Advisor what you're wearing underneath, how much padding you want and how you need to move. It suggests a starting scale and a checklist of what to verify before a full print.
Scale per part, and per axis
Each armor part is sized from the measurement that matters for it — head circumference for a helmet, chest circumference for a chest plate, forearm for a gauntlet — plus wearing clearance. Then you can unlock proportions and set X, Y and Z separately: wider but not taller, or deeper for padding.
A real resize, and foam patterns
The exported STL or OBJ has every vertex rescaled — it's a new printable file. If you build in EVA foam, the Studio can flatten the resized model into numbered 1:1 pattern pieces with cut and fold lines.
Always test first
No tool can guarantee fit from numbers alone. Print a ring or small section, or test-cut a pattern in card, and check it on your body before committing hours of print time. See our step-by-step scaling guide.